Inis Oirr

My last night on the Aran Islands was spent on the beautiful island of Inis Oirr. I was convinced to go there by a local woman on the island of Inis Mor where I had spent the previous two nights. She said "Go there, there is loads of craic and fantastic music, it is my favorite island." Who wouldn't go after that recommendation? I booked a B & B (my own bed!) named Radharc An Claire.

In the morning on Inis Mor while I was waiting for my ferry I watched the locals participate in a movie being filmed titled "The Rafters." I will most certainly look for that when it comes out! No I did not see anything too interesting, but the girls I had dinner with the night before were hiking and saw a woman half naked by a natural phenomenon called "The Wormhole." She totally ruined their picture taking opportunities.

After hopping on the ferry, as much as one can hop with a small house on their back I was off to Inis Oirr. Upon arriving on the island I was greeted with the sun shining on a quaint town with stone walls and a large castle ruin overlooking it. I asked a local how to get to Radharch An Claire. He pointed me up a road and told me it would be a mere 20 minute walk. 20 minutes Irish style! Also as per usual the directions were nice and vague and I ended up wandering around for 45 minutes running over his directions of "Go up that road, once the cemetary is on your left make a right and it will be there." Thus there are three roads by the cemetary and I had no idea if I was on the right one. I finally asked a woman who was walking by who promptly called her mother who was a local to find out where it was. BTW I lost about 10 lbs during this from carrying my backpack around.
Upon consulting her mother the woman found out that the sign for the B & B was not the name of it. Why do that? It was the owners name, Brid Poil. Now I had walked by this sign a couple of times, but I had no idea! Upon entry to her B & B I felt so welcome, and so relieved to put my small house, aka backpack down that a smile was on my face once again. I was greeted with tea and homemade scones & bread, it was lovely. She was very kind and welcoming, the room was fantastic, see my Flickr for pictures.

Post tea it was time to explore the island. The castle ruins at the top of the town known as O'Briens castle were gorgeous, with sweeping views of the harbor and the mainland across the way. Wildflowers were blooming all around me and it was very peaceful. I walked the length of the island and got lost in the rock walls. The walls are made thusly as the island is made of rock and they have to put it somewhere to make farmland. Once I got off the beaten path with my only company being cows I had sweeping views of the Atlantic to one side and a beautiful lighthouse with the cliffs of Mohr as the backdrop on the other. At times I felt so lost among the rocks walls that were taller than me at points, I felt like I was in a labyrinth. The only sounds accompanying this walk were the cows mooing and the wind blowing. As I looked across the Atlantic I imagined my friends and family in New York going about their lives as I stood there on this remote island halfway across the world, feeling like a lost ship looking for its moorings.

I made it back to reality and after a quick shower it was time to head out for bite to eat and some music. I ate at the pub where there was an event occurring that evening for the lifeboats. The lifeboats are volunteer driven, and widely regarded everywhere I go. They will help people in medical and/or sea emergencies. If the lifeboats were not supported by the people via monetary and voluntary assistance the residents of the islands would have to wait for a helicopter from Dublin or Cork which may take too long depending on the emergency.

Dinner consisted of vegetable soup & chips. I have eaten soooo many chips here, good thing I am walking all over the place! (:

At the pub I chatted with an Irish couple that had been coming to the island for a getaway for 16 years. We had a great conversation about everything from the view of the people on the Catholic church, to the recession and how hard it has hit Ireland, to whether France should have banned the burkah. It was a great stimulating conversation in which opinions were expressed, ideas exchanged, and mutual respect was abound.

Post dinner I headed to the bar for a pre-music pint and met a woman from Dublin who introduced me to all of her friends and we all spent the night listening to amazing music. Four traditional musicians entertained the crowd playing a wide range of instruments from the flute to the fiddle to the accordion. A really memorable moment was when the owner of the pub spontaneously broke into an Irish song. Picture an elderly gentleman with wirey white hair that reached his shoulders, a weathered face complete with a white lambchop beard, leaning against a pillar in the packed pub singing a mournful Irish song of which I only heard two words. South Wales. It was beautiful, the people quieted down and listened to him sing a song that had been sung many times before for many years. When it was finished I asked my new friends what it was about. Their reply? "War, famine, love lost, you know, the usual stuff."

I went to bed at 1 but my taxi driver the next morning told me it went until 5 am! Brid made me a wonderful breakfast of porridge, fresh fruit, yogurt, and tea (and she had soy milk!) She even packed me up some homemade scones and bread for my bus ride. I would so recommend her B & B, it was wonderful. I really enjoyed hearing her speak Irish to her husband as well.

The Aran Islands were quite memorable and somewhere that I would go back to in a heartbeat and spend a lot more time on. A breathtaking, contemplative place filled with kind people and stunning views. The kind of place you could get lost in and on the way back rediscover yourself.