Lessons learned:
1. I really can travel alone, and maybe even prefer it! While I did have some lonely moments I learned to savor the freedom in being able to make your own decisions and to truly depend and trust myself. To listen to myself when I feel uncomfortable, to try my best to hold my tongue when my opinion is not needed, and to remember that it is okay to get grouchy but not to wallow. Part of it is accepting how you feel, your frustrations or disappointments and deciding what to do with that. Do I let it ruin my day? Hopefully not. Little reminders like reading the paper help to realize how few people have the opportunities that I am experiencing and how truly lucky I am.
2. I can do some serious hard work! I really surprised myself with how much I “dug in” to the farm work. I really fell in love with raising animals (albeit mine would have a cushy life) and growing your own vegetables. I am yearning for a garden patch back home. There is something to be found in caring for the earth, growing your food, and feeling a connection to it.
3. I can make friends wherever I go. I met some amazing people on this trip who all had something to teach me. From the two women traveling solo from Denmark & Holland who both preferred traveling solo to Sonny the farmer (yes I learned things from him!) to Alex from Germany who had such innocence and joyous love of life. I think of these people often and carry the memories of them with me. When you travel with someone you will meet a couple of people, but nowhere near the amount of people you meet traveling solo. I found much comfort in this.
4. Hostels are not horrible! This was my first hostel experience and overall it was fantastic! Yes I prefer to have my own space, but they are so affordable, you meet amazing people, and the kitchens cannot be beat.
5. In my younger years I always considered myself a city girl, but I think I am quite the opposite. I love the small towns, beautiful countryside, and beautiful outdoors activities way more than a bustling city.
6. I am tired of being single. Yes I said it. I would have preferred to share some of these experiences with a partner. No this does not make me a hypocrite, I really did love traveling alone, but I am looking for a man to shovel poop with, pull weeds with, and laugh with. A kind man who loves the environment, is comfortable in his own skin, is super liberal, and looks at life from a positive viewpoint. Know someone like that? Send him my way please.
7. I brought way too many clothes. I thought France was going to be like an oven so I schlepped warm weather clothes all around Ireland for over a month and wore ¼ of them while in France. I brought too many sandals and should have brought a pair of tennis shoes to go running with instead. I also brought too many farm pants. Hello if you have dirt on your clothes you can still wear the same pants the next day, you are on a farm after all! I also brought one too many bags that I thought would double as a purse but used it once for this purpose. Too much stuff!
8. I like to eat. Every 2 hours to be exact. I need to plan more for this in the future. Like right now. I am on a plane and starving.
9. I like Guinness but I am afraid to drink it in the States because I just don’t know if it will be as good.
10. I like Pastis, it kind of numbs your tongue. Wonder if it does this in the states. This warrants further investigation.
11. I really want to live in Ireland, but I really love my life in LA. Like more than I have loved my life in like ever. Yes I did just make a valley reference for those that missed it. I have fantastic friends, a great job, and belong to a fantastic church. Am I willing to give that up to move to Ireland? Would I like it as much if I lived there? All thoughts to be pondered.
I have had so many wonderful experiences over this summer that I feel so grateful for. I know it is easy to get caught up in the day to day activities of life, but I always want to be able to keep perspective, whether I am stuck in LA traffic or behind someone rude at the grocery store. I want to meet as many people as possible in this life, from all over the globe, and learn as much from them as I can. And maybe inspire one or two of them to pick up a wee bit o trash along the way.
Now time to start planning what I am doing next summer…..
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Provence
After meeting up with Dad and Bonnie we spent one night at a beautiful B & B near the quaint town of Menerbes. This B & B was owned by an older Parisian couple who had lived there for ten years and the wife liked to spend her days topless by the pool perfecting her tan. The grounds, rooms, and pool were jaw droppingly gorgeous. I could definitely spend some time there. There were hammocks under the trees, pastis or wine at your disposal and the sound of cicadas chirping in the background.
The next night it was time to meet up with the other 17 friends and family who had come to Provence to spend the week celebrating Dad & Bonnie’s 25th wedding anniversary. We had two villas, one of which had 15 people and the other housed the rest of our crew (6 people). Our villa (the big villa) was just beautiful and huge! I slept in a dorm room with my cousin Amie and Aunt Pam, and we had quite the good time. The week was spent going to ancient sites, from stone huts to roman ruins. Dad was a great tour guide, and we took our rag tag group of Americans along on many a road trip, with many a car following Dad through the winding streets of medieval towns. Dinners were fantastic, with a few culinary whizzes in the group, we had some amazing meals. The afternoons were punctuated with driving back at the villa and jumping in the pool stat for a cool refresher from the warm Provence touring.
As we were in the towns the family gradually got used to using French and by the end of the trip I was happy to see everyone had mastered the basic greetings. Of course at this point I had mastered the fine art of consuming as many baguettes as possible. Mmm bread. One of my most favorite things!
We also consumed a large amount of wine, but of course! We went to several wineries, including the winery where the film “The Good Year” was filmed. Have not seen it but heard it was nothing to rave about. You will not be surprised to read what my first questions to the wine makers was upon entry to the winery. Is the wine organic? At the aforementioned winery which was a father-daughter operation the daughter told us they had been completely organic for 30 years! So fantastic! Now I know that I am probably getting a lot of eye rolls upon reading this, but organic wine is better for you. In addition to having less sulphites it doesn’t have pesticides. Now who wants to drink pesticides? That’s all I am sayin’.
The party where Dad and Bonnie renewed their vows was fantastic, Bonnie wore her wedding gown and there wasn’t a dry eye in the house. I read a little poem I wrote that had people laughing and misty all at the same time. We had it catered, the food was amazing and much laughter was to be had. We ended the night with a rousing game of charades. Dad & Bonnie requested that everyone send them charade suggestions in advance but only a few did, thus Dad entered a bunch of his suggestions. Totally random.
Some examples:
1. Song- Wurly hurly girl
2. Movie- The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou
3. Some song by a group called “X”
We climbed castles, clambered over ruins, visited the Pope’s Palace, walked on Roman bridges and got a true albeit brief taste of Provence. After Provence it was off to Nice for the night then home to the states. Our drive to Nice was non-eventful, but trying to circumnavigate the one way traffic/people ridden streets of Nice was most certainly not. We had three cars, the only one having a map being Dad’s and three hotels to drop people off at. After spending 90 minutes driving around, getting honked at and having the feeling that our individual blood pressures were above the safe limits we decided to drop off the rental cars at the airport and just take taxi’s to our hotels. Whew! After checking in it was time for a very brief tour of Nice.
Impressions of Nice:
Not so impressed. Really beautiful beaches and buildings, but INSANELY crowded, tons of money flowing through there and not the kind of place I would want to spend a large amount of time. I am told off season it is quite nice, but I have grown to have quite the affinity for small towns and villages and less hustle & bustle. Our small group of 9 found a Thai restaurant to eat dinner at which was off the beaten path and very quiet. After dinner Dad, Grammy and I went out for an evening nightcap. My last drink in Europe! I tried to convince them to go to an Irish pub, but they put the kibosh on that. It was at a bar called the Ritz which of course prompted me to break out into the “Putting on the Ritz” song. (:
My last drink on European soil? Pastis of course! When in France…
It was a really great week and so many rich memories were made with friends and family. The perfect end to a really long but amazing summer. So thankful to have so much love in my life, be it family and friends.
The next night it was time to meet up with the other 17 friends and family who had come to Provence to spend the week celebrating Dad & Bonnie’s 25th wedding anniversary. We had two villas, one of which had 15 people and the other housed the rest of our crew (6 people). Our villa (the big villa) was just beautiful and huge! I slept in a dorm room with my cousin Amie and Aunt Pam, and we had quite the good time. The week was spent going to ancient sites, from stone huts to roman ruins. Dad was a great tour guide, and we took our rag tag group of Americans along on many a road trip, with many a car following Dad through the winding streets of medieval towns. Dinners were fantastic, with a few culinary whizzes in the group, we had some amazing meals. The afternoons were punctuated with driving back at the villa and jumping in the pool stat for a cool refresher from the warm Provence touring.
As we were in the towns the family gradually got used to using French and by the end of the trip I was happy to see everyone had mastered the basic greetings. Of course at this point I had mastered the fine art of consuming as many baguettes as possible. Mmm bread. One of my most favorite things!
We also consumed a large amount of wine, but of course! We went to several wineries, including the winery where the film “The Good Year” was filmed. Have not seen it but heard it was nothing to rave about. You will not be surprised to read what my first questions to the wine makers was upon entry to the winery. Is the wine organic? At the aforementioned winery which was a father-daughter operation the daughter told us they had been completely organic for 30 years! So fantastic! Now I know that I am probably getting a lot of eye rolls upon reading this, but organic wine is better for you. In addition to having less sulphites it doesn’t have pesticides. Now who wants to drink pesticides? That’s all I am sayin’.
The party where Dad and Bonnie renewed their vows was fantastic, Bonnie wore her wedding gown and there wasn’t a dry eye in the house. I read a little poem I wrote that had people laughing and misty all at the same time. We had it catered, the food was amazing and much laughter was to be had. We ended the night with a rousing game of charades. Dad & Bonnie requested that everyone send them charade suggestions in advance but only a few did, thus Dad entered a bunch of his suggestions. Totally random.
Some examples:
1. Song- Wurly hurly girl
2. Movie- The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou
3. Some song by a group called “X”
We climbed castles, clambered over ruins, visited the Pope’s Palace, walked on Roman bridges and got a true albeit brief taste of Provence. After Provence it was off to Nice for the night then home to the states. Our drive to Nice was non-eventful, but trying to circumnavigate the one way traffic/people ridden streets of Nice was most certainly not. We had three cars, the only one having a map being Dad’s and three hotels to drop people off at. After spending 90 minutes driving around, getting honked at and having the feeling that our individual blood pressures were above the safe limits we decided to drop off the rental cars at the airport and just take taxi’s to our hotels. Whew! After checking in it was time for a very brief tour of Nice.
Impressions of Nice:
Not so impressed. Really beautiful beaches and buildings, but INSANELY crowded, tons of money flowing through there and not the kind of place I would want to spend a large amount of time. I am told off season it is quite nice, but I have grown to have quite the affinity for small towns and villages and less hustle & bustle. Our small group of 9 found a Thai restaurant to eat dinner at which was off the beaten path and very quiet. After dinner Dad, Grammy and I went out for an evening nightcap. My last drink in Europe! I tried to convince them to go to an Irish pub, but they put the kibosh on that. It was at a bar called the Ritz which of course prompted me to break out into the “Putting on the Ritz” song. (:
My last drink on European soil? Pastis of course! When in France…
It was a really great week and so many rich memories were made with friends and family. The perfect end to a really long but amazing summer. So thankful to have so much love in my life, be it family and friends.
Cassis
Grammy and I had a long day of travel to head from Blois to Cassis and we arrived 8 hours later. Cassis was just beautiful. Pebbly beaches, azure colored water, and beautiful limestone mountains in the backdrop. We stayed at a lovely little hotel minutes from the beach and had a really relaxing couple of days.
Our hotel had a friendly woman working at the front desk, (contrary to the reviews online) who was quick to offer assistance and helpful tips. Upon arriving in the town I set off in search of a beauty salon to make an appointment. I found one close by but it was closed. Another young woman walked up and through broken English I deciphered that she had an appointment 5 minutes from then. Through broken French I explained to her that I wanted to make an appointment but my French was so so. The esthetician walked up to the spa 5 minutes later.
Conversation was as follows:
Mean esthetician: Hello do you have the 5 o’clock appointment?
Nice young French woman: Yes I have one right now and she (pointing to me) would like to make one.
Mean esthetician: (Okay so I am guessing she asked what I wanted done but she said it so fast I had no idea what she was saying)
Nice young French woman (to esthetician): She only speaks English.
Mean esthetician (in French to nice young French woman): What is she doing in France if she doesn’t speak French?
Then the nice woman looked at me with a really apologetic look as she knew I knew enough French to comprehend that I had just been insulted.
Thus I did not make an appointment there! This really personifies how easy it is to travel in a country where you can speak the language. Traveling in Ireland was so easy because the people all spoke English and were super helpful, but traveling in France has been a bit of a headache. Maybe I am just tired of traveling, maybe it is that I feel like I left a piece of myself in Ireland, I don’t know but the non-helpful French people have seemed to outweigh the helpful ones. But I digress.
One of the days in Cassis Grammy went on a boat ride to view the calanques and I hiked to them. The calanques are between Cassis and Marseille and are rocky inlets flanked by limestone cliffs that are just beautiful! My hike was lovely and hot as hades. The limestone mountains get really warm from the sun and it reflects right into your face, not to mention slippery! It was a beautiful hike thought and nice to get out of the city for a bit. Interesting fact: The limestone from those cliffs is what was used to form the base of the statue of liberty.
Grammy and I did a fair amount of lounging on the pebbly beach while enjoying pear sorbet, it was quite relaxing. There I was, slathered in SPF 50, sun hat on while 90 year old leathered tanned topless French woman sunbathed next to me. Oh yeah I stood out! My SPF 50 and I are okay with that. They have a great market that we enjoyed perusing as well. I swam in the Mediterranean which was brrrrr cold! We punctuated our evenings with sipping on aperitifs at the cafes and watching the sun set beyond the mountains.
One evening we chose an out of the way pizza place that was up an alley that made the most fantastic pizza. It was made by a Tunisian man who spoke minimal English but we managed to communicate via my minimal French. Next to us sat two sailors that we enjoying swapping stories with. They both lived on sailboats alone and just sailed to wherever they felt like. One of them had been sailing for 3 years. I asked him about what they do for food and he said he fished. Well you know what my next question is right? Of course I asked him if he found plastic in their stomachs. He said not too much but he did see a lot of dead sea turtles with pieces of plastic in their mouths. He also said a lot of small islands do not have a trash disposal system so they just throw their trash in the ocean. When he returns from the Caribbean on a certain route he stated that there was a lot of trash to be found on this route. I was amazed. I thought it was primarily just in the States but this is happening everywhere.
It was really a rich experience to find out about their lives. I could see how appealing it would be, as well as unbelievably lonely. I guess that appeals to me, stretch yourself to your limit, go so far outside of your comfort zone, and see if you can find comfort there. For when it is just you, a sail boat, and the ocean, you do not have many options.
At the end of the meal the Tunisian pizza maker came up to us and said something in really fast French. I just smiled and nodded which is my usual go to action when I have no idea what is being offered. Next thing I knew I received an after dinner drink of fig liqueur. This was clear, and almost 100 proof. It was quite a shock to the system but an interesting way to end the evening.
It was the perfect break between cities to spend 3 nights in Cassis; very relaxing and enjoyable.
Next it was time to head to Provence!
Our hotel had a friendly woman working at the front desk, (contrary to the reviews online) who was quick to offer assistance and helpful tips. Upon arriving in the town I set off in search of a beauty salon to make an appointment. I found one close by but it was closed. Another young woman walked up and through broken English I deciphered that she had an appointment 5 minutes from then. Through broken French I explained to her that I wanted to make an appointment but my French was so so. The esthetician walked up to the spa 5 minutes later.
Conversation was as follows:
Mean esthetician: Hello do you have the 5 o’clock appointment?
Nice young French woman: Yes I have one right now and she (pointing to me) would like to make one.
Mean esthetician: (Okay so I am guessing she asked what I wanted done but she said it so fast I had no idea what she was saying)
Nice young French woman (to esthetician): She only speaks English.
Mean esthetician (in French to nice young French woman): What is she doing in France if she doesn’t speak French?
Then the nice woman looked at me with a really apologetic look as she knew I knew enough French to comprehend that I had just been insulted.
Thus I did not make an appointment there! This really personifies how easy it is to travel in a country where you can speak the language. Traveling in Ireland was so easy because the people all spoke English and were super helpful, but traveling in France has been a bit of a headache. Maybe I am just tired of traveling, maybe it is that I feel like I left a piece of myself in Ireland, I don’t know but the non-helpful French people have seemed to outweigh the helpful ones. But I digress.
One of the days in Cassis Grammy went on a boat ride to view the calanques and I hiked to them. The calanques are between Cassis and Marseille and are rocky inlets flanked by limestone cliffs that are just beautiful! My hike was lovely and hot as hades. The limestone mountains get really warm from the sun and it reflects right into your face, not to mention slippery! It was a beautiful hike thought and nice to get out of the city for a bit. Interesting fact: The limestone from those cliffs is what was used to form the base of the statue of liberty.
Grammy and I did a fair amount of lounging on the pebbly beach while enjoying pear sorbet, it was quite relaxing. There I was, slathered in SPF 50, sun hat on while 90 year old leathered tanned topless French woman sunbathed next to me. Oh yeah I stood out! My SPF 50 and I are okay with that. They have a great market that we enjoyed perusing as well. I swam in the Mediterranean which was brrrrr cold! We punctuated our evenings with sipping on aperitifs at the cafes and watching the sun set beyond the mountains.
One evening we chose an out of the way pizza place that was up an alley that made the most fantastic pizza. It was made by a Tunisian man who spoke minimal English but we managed to communicate via my minimal French. Next to us sat two sailors that we enjoying swapping stories with. They both lived on sailboats alone and just sailed to wherever they felt like. One of them had been sailing for 3 years. I asked him about what they do for food and he said he fished. Well you know what my next question is right? Of course I asked him if he found plastic in their stomachs. He said not too much but he did see a lot of dead sea turtles with pieces of plastic in their mouths. He also said a lot of small islands do not have a trash disposal system so they just throw their trash in the ocean. When he returns from the Caribbean on a certain route he stated that there was a lot of trash to be found on this route. I was amazed. I thought it was primarily just in the States but this is happening everywhere.
It was really a rich experience to find out about their lives. I could see how appealing it would be, as well as unbelievably lonely. I guess that appeals to me, stretch yourself to your limit, go so far outside of your comfort zone, and see if you can find comfort there. For when it is just you, a sail boat, and the ocean, you do not have many options.
At the end of the meal the Tunisian pizza maker came up to us and said something in really fast French. I just smiled and nodded which is my usual go to action when I have no idea what is being offered. Next thing I knew I received an after dinner drink of fig liqueur. This was clear, and almost 100 proof. It was quite a shock to the system but an interesting way to end the evening.
It was the perfect break between cities to spend 3 nights in Cassis; very relaxing and enjoyable.
Next it was time to head to Provence!
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Bye Bye Blois
Grammy and I had a lovely 9 days spent in Blois. It is such a quaint picturesque town, curving streets, medieval buildings, a chateau looming over it all with three magnificent cathedrals set alongside the banks of the Loire.
On Saturday we went to the public market. Wow was that a sight to behold. Of course there was the expected fruit and vegetable stands, boulangerie stands with their wide array of baked goods, and cheese stands with more goat cheese than I could eat in a year. What we didn’t expect was the mattress stand, the lingerie stands, and the “sell whatever you have lying around your house” stands. It was quite the interesting experience. We purchased wonderful food for dinner that evening and lunch for the next couple of days.
On Sunday we had tickets for a chateau excursion that left from the town of Tours. We had to take a train from Blois to Tours, as we had for our previous two excursions out of Tours. I did not check the train schedule until mid morning and lo and behold they have limited trains on Sundays! Uh oh. Thus I had to call the tourist office who we booked through to see if we could reschedule the excursion to Monday as we would not be able to make it. The woman informed me that the tour guide stated he had to turn people away for our seats so we may have to eat the money. These excursions are not cheap and thus enter me freaking out. The woman at the tourist office instructed me to call back at 12:30 to check if we could get on the tour tomorrow.
Grammy and I decided to travel in the opposite direction to the city of Orleans to see what Orleans had going on. Well they have a massive cathedral. And when I say massive, whoa do I mean massive. This is the kind of cathedral that could really scare you into believing in something! Very gothic, very beautiful, very imposing.
My telephone call to the tourist office occurred at 12:40 after we departed the train when I listened to a message stating they were closed between 12:30-2:30 for lunch. Seriously. I called back at 2:30, was told we would not be able to get on the tour, and then I pulled out a wee bit of complaining, she called the tour operator back and instructed us to show up on Monday at the instructed time and “hopefully” we would get on the bus.
Aside from the cathedral we didn’t find much to Orleans and headed back to Blois as there was a free renaissance music that evening in front of the castle. Our trip back to the train station was eventful in that we decided to shorten our walking time by hopping on the light rail. While waiting for the light rail I met an Irish woman who had just moved to France. Ahhh Ireland! It made me quite wistful upon hearing her accent. After we boarded the light rail it took me approximately 5 seconds to realize it was going the wrong way. Oops! Grammy and I lengthened our walking time by a bit but we had a laugh about it later. Always something to laugh about after the fact!
Blois is a lovely town and during the summer they have a large amount of free summer concerts and festivities that we enjoyed partaking in. The renaissance music was beautiful, but a bit sleep inducing. Post music it was back to the apartment to make dinner and pack up our belongings as we would not have time on Monday.
Monday morning we got up early to do some last minute shopping in Blois, until we realized that everything except the post office and mobile phone store are closed in Blois on Monday. Literally everything. Thus we decided to head to Tours early, and we did indeed make it onto the excursion. We were able to see the most visited chateau in the Loire valley (of which there are 1,000 chateaus) Chenonceau. This chateau is quite beautiful. And completely overrun with tourists! Approximately 6,000 tourist go through that chateau per day in the height of the summer season. Wowza. Grammy and I up until this point hadn’t seen barely any Americans, well we saw and heard them here. Sigh.
After the chaos that was touring Chenonceau we were able to tour Leonardo da Vinci’s house, Clos De Luce. He lived in a mansion with a secret tunnel to the castle Amboise for the last two years of his life. He was a favorite of several French kings, lastly being Francois I. Francois I used to use the tunnel to visit Da Vinci almost daily. It was a lovely mansion, beautiful gardens, and not crowded at all. Grammy and I were able to take a brief tea & crepe break there which was much needed.
It was then on to our last castle of the trip, Amboise. Amboise was heavily destroyed during Napoleons reign and now what stands is just 1/5 of the former size. It was very pretty, but I think Grammy and I had our fill of castles. 9 castles in all!
We then returned to the apartment and met the owner to see if he could fix the socket and if we would be getting our deposit back. What happened to the socket you may be wondering. Well Grammy did not check to see if her 10 lb (exaggerating) battery charger was dual voltage. Thus when I plugged it into the socket for her, I almost died. Okay exaggerating a bit there. How about a spark and some smoke. I promptly pulled it out and from then on 4 sockets in her room and the bathroom refused to work. We thought it might be the spark plugs so we bought new ones, flipped a bunch of switches, to no avail. Nicolas, the gentleman whose apartment it was did not seem to worried about it although he did mention having to take the socket out and check the wiring… oops. He did give us our deposit back though!
We had a late dinner at a restaurant just down the street from our apartment. We had walked by this restaurant many times during the week and always said that we should go there, well our last night was it! There was a 30 minute wait so we decided to meander down the road to see if we could get a drink first. We entered a brasserie and asked if we could take a seat. We were instructed to enter the back room and take a seat there. I asked the waitress if it was okay to sit there (after we sat down) as we were just having drinks. She said no, but to go to the front room and we could have a drink there. We went to the front room, and took a seat. And were promptly told to move again. Apparently we were at a table with a tablecloth. The table directly next to us did not have a tablecloth; thus apparently no tablecloth equals drinks? After sitting at our third table we were really ready for a drink then!
At the appointed time we made our way back to the restaurant and were seated in the verrrryyyy quiet back room. We did sound a bit like a herd of American elephants entering, scraping chairs on the floor and such. Grammy said “Well we have made our entrance!” Upon perusing the menu how excited was I when I realized they had a prix fix menu for vegetarians! Quel surprise! Complete with a cereal steak! (This means a steak made of grains) My opening course was a goat cheese and tomato dish that was lovely.
Me: How is your duck pate Gram?
Gram: It is wonderful. This fresh bread they brought us goes wonderful with it. How is your dish?
Me: Fantastic but I think they have added some cream to it.
Gram: (Very loudly) Uh ohh you better take an immodium.
Ah Gram. After the cereal steak it was time to order dessert. I ordered an apple tart and was trying to explain to the waitress that I wanted sorbet with it instead of ice cream. I was then telling her that I was allergic to cow milk. The waitress kept repeating “Caww meelk?” as she didn’t understand what I was saying, so Gram pipes in with a very large MOOOOO. I then instructed Gram she is not allowed to moo in restaurants. She thought it was hilarious.
All in all it was a fantastic meal and a perfect way to end our 9 days in Blois, of which I have many fond memories.
The next morning it was time for a day of traveling. With 100+ lbs of baggage.
Grammy and I first took the train from Blois to Paris; while on the train the officers checked our tickets. The officer who entered our compartment entered into a long discussion with the gentlemen next to us en francais of course. The gentle men next to us were in the military and thusly had received a military discount but had to show their military id’s. One of them forgot his, and had to pay an extra 90 euros!
When Grammy and I exited the train I asked her if she had understood what was going on and she guessed correctly. Good job Grammy interpreting the French! Her response? “I don’t read mystery books for nothin’ you know.” (:
The train was late arriving in Paris giving us 15 minutes to catch the next one to Marseille. After I carried beaucoup des baggages off the train I stood under the train schedule not understanding why our train was not on there. After consulting the tickets it stated that we were leaving out of a different station! Qeuel horreur! Upon exiting the 1st train station we saw a sign for the other which said 1 minute. Hah! Two people with a combined age of 107 + over 100 lbs of baggage does not mean we were moving at our top speed! We walked as fast as we could and made it to the station, after I realized which track it was on and that it was departing in less than one minute it was time for panic mode. I started running towards the train with the conductor blowing his whistle and me waving franticly with Grammy trailing me. He was waving me in the door, I turned around and told Grammy to run like she has never ran. Okay maybe I just said “Grammy run!” Boy Grammy can run for a 75 year old! As soon as she entered the door it closed behind her and we were off! Whew!
On the TGV there is assigned seating and we have been lucky enough to get the seats downwind of the broken toilet. Gross. Train officer is cute though and as he walked by he smiled at me which prompted Grammy to go into multiple eyebrow lifting mode.
After we arrive in Marseille it is then on to Cassis which is our final destination. I was reading the reviews of our hotel online last night and a lot of them mention a rather unfriendly woman at the desk. Something to look forward to!
On Saturday we went to the public market. Wow was that a sight to behold. Of course there was the expected fruit and vegetable stands, boulangerie stands with their wide array of baked goods, and cheese stands with more goat cheese than I could eat in a year. What we didn’t expect was the mattress stand, the lingerie stands, and the “sell whatever you have lying around your house” stands. It was quite the interesting experience. We purchased wonderful food for dinner that evening and lunch for the next couple of days.
On Sunday we had tickets for a chateau excursion that left from the town of Tours. We had to take a train from Blois to Tours, as we had for our previous two excursions out of Tours. I did not check the train schedule until mid morning and lo and behold they have limited trains on Sundays! Uh oh. Thus I had to call the tourist office who we booked through to see if we could reschedule the excursion to Monday as we would not be able to make it. The woman informed me that the tour guide stated he had to turn people away for our seats so we may have to eat the money. These excursions are not cheap and thus enter me freaking out. The woman at the tourist office instructed me to call back at 12:30 to check if we could get on the tour tomorrow.
Grammy and I decided to travel in the opposite direction to the city of Orleans to see what Orleans had going on. Well they have a massive cathedral. And when I say massive, whoa do I mean massive. This is the kind of cathedral that could really scare you into believing in something! Very gothic, very beautiful, very imposing.
My telephone call to the tourist office occurred at 12:40 after we departed the train when I listened to a message stating they were closed between 12:30-2:30 for lunch. Seriously. I called back at 2:30, was told we would not be able to get on the tour, and then I pulled out a wee bit of complaining, she called the tour operator back and instructed us to show up on Monday at the instructed time and “hopefully” we would get on the bus.
Aside from the cathedral we didn’t find much to Orleans and headed back to Blois as there was a free renaissance music that evening in front of the castle. Our trip back to the train station was eventful in that we decided to shorten our walking time by hopping on the light rail. While waiting for the light rail I met an Irish woman who had just moved to France. Ahhh Ireland! It made me quite wistful upon hearing her accent. After we boarded the light rail it took me approximately 5 seconds to realize it was going the wrong way. Oops! Grammy and I lengthened our walking time by a bit but we had a laugh about it later. Always something to laugh about after the fact!
Blois is a lovely town and during the summer they have a large amount of free summer concerts and festivities that we enjoyed partaking in. The renaissance music was beautiful, but a bit sleep inducing. Post music it was back to the apartment to make dinner and pack up our belongings as we would not have time on Monday.
Monday morning we got up early to do some last minute shopping in Blois, until we realized that everything except the post office and mobile phone store are closed in Blois on Monday. Literally everything. Thus we decided to head to Tours early, and we did indeed make it onto the excursion. We were able to see the most visited chateau in the Loire valley (of which there are 1,000 chateaus) Chenonceau. This chateau is quite beautiful. And completely overrun with tourists! Approximately 6,000 tourist go through that chateau per day in the height of the summer season. Wowza. Grammy and I up until this point hadn’t seen barely any Americans, well we saw and heard them here. Sigh.
After the chaos that was touring Chenonceau we were able to tour Leonardo da Vinci’s house, Clos De Luce. He lived in a mansion with a secret tunnel to the castle Amboise for the last two years of his life. He was a favorite of several French kings, lastly being Francois I. Francois I used to use the tunnel to visit Da Vinci almost daily. It was a lovely mansion, beautiful gardens, and not crowded at all. Grammy and I were able to take a brief tea & crepe break there which was much needed.
It was then on to our last castle of the trip, Amboise. Amboise was heavily destroyed during Napoleons reign and now what stands is just 1/5 of the former size. It was very pretty, but I think Grammy and I had our fill of castles. 9 castles in all!
We then returned to the apartment and met the owner to see if he could fix the socket and if we would be getting our deposit back. What happened to the socket you may be wondering. Well Grammy did not check to see if her 10 lb (exaggerating) battery charger was dual voltage. Thus when I plugged it into the socket for her, I almost died. Okay exaggerating a bit there. How about a spark and some smoke. I promptly pulled it out and from then on 4 sockets in her room and the bathroom refused to work. We thought it might be the spark plugs so we bought new ones, flipped a bunch of switches, to no avail. Nicolas, the gentleman whose apartment it was did not seem to worried about it although he did mention having to take the socket out and check the wiring… oops. He did give us our deposit back though!
We had a late dinner at a restaurant just down the street from our apartment. We had walked by this restaurant many times during the week and always said that we should go there, well our last night was it! There was a 30 minute wait so we decided to meander down the road to see if we could get a drink first. We entered a brasserie and asked if we could take a seat. We were instructed to enter the back room and take a seat there. I asked the waitress if it was okay to sit there (after we sat down) as we were just having drinks. She said no, but to go to the front room and we could have a drink there. We went to the front room, and took a seat. And were promptly told to move again. Apparently we were at a table with a tablecloth. The table directly next to us did not have a tablecloth; thus apparently no tablecloth equals drinks? After sitting at our third table we were really ready for a drink then!
At the appointed time we made our way back to the restaurant and were seated in the verrrryyyy quiet back room. We did sound a bit like a herd of American elephants entering, scraping chairs on the floor and such. Grammy said “Well we have made our entrance!” Upon perusing the menu how excited was I when I realized they had a prix fix menu for vegetarians! Quel surprise! Complete with a cereal steak! (This means a steak made of grains) My opening course was a goat cheese and tomato dish that was lovely.
Me: How is your duck pate Gram?
Gram: It is wonderful. This fresh bread they brought us goes wonderful with it. How is your dish?
Me: Fantastic but I think they have added some cream to it.
Gram: (Very loudly) Uh ohh you better take an immodium.
Ah Gram. After the cereal steak it was time to order dessert. I ordered an apple tart and was trying to explain to the waitress that I wanted sorbet with it instead of ice cream. I was then telling her that I was allergic to cow milk. The waitress kept repeating “Caww meelk?” as she didn’t understand what I was saying, so Gram pipes in with a very large MOOOOO. I then instructed Gram she is not allowed to moo in restaurants. She thought it was hilarious.
All in all it was a fantastic meal and a perfect way to end our 9 days in Blois, of which I have many fond memories.
The next morning it was time for a day of traveling. With 100+ lbs of baggage.
Grammy and I first took the train from Blois to Paris; while on the train the officers checked our tickets. The officer who entered our compartment entered into a long discussion with the gentlemen next to us en francais of course. The gentle men next to us were in the military and thusly had received a military discount but had to show their military id’s. One of them forgot his, and had to pay an extra 90 euros!
When Grammy and I exited the train I asked her if she had understood what was going on and she guessed correctly. Good job Grammy interpreting the French! Her response? “I don’t read mystery books for nothin’ you know.” (:
The train was late arriving in Paris giving us 15 minutes to catch the next one to Marseille. After I carried beaucoup des baggages off the train I stood under the train schedule not understanding why our train was not on there. After consulting the tickets it stated that we were leaving out of a different station! Qeuel horreur! Upon exiting the 1st train station we saw a sign for the other which said 1 minute. Hah! Two people with a combined age of 107 + over 100 lbs of baggage does not mean we were moving at our top speed! We walked as fast as we could and made it to the station, after I realized which track it was on and that it was departing in less than one minute it was time for panic mode. I started running towards the train with the conductor blowing his whistle and me waving franticly with Grammy trailing me. He was waving me in the door, I turned around and told Grammy to run like she has never ran. Okay maybe I just said “Grammy run!” Boy Grammy can run for a 75 year old! As soon as she entered the door it closed behind her and we were off! Whew!
On the TGV there is assigned seating and we have been lucky enough to get the seats downwind of the broken toilet. Gross. Train officer is cute though and as he walked by he smiled at me which prompted Grammy to go into multiple eyebrow lifting mode.
After we arrive in Marseille it is then on to Cassis which is our final destination. I was reading the reviews of our hotel online last night and a lot of them mention a rather unfriendly woman at the desk. Something to look forward to!
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Castles, Castles, and More Castles
I think I may have had my fill of castles. Hah! As of today, Saturday Grammy and I have seen seven castles. Whoa. We have plans to see two more tomorrow as well as a wine tasting and then we are finished with castles! Yesterday we did an afternoon tour of two including one that inspired the “Sleeping Beauty” story. Grammy and I thought they were both beautiful but the tour guide was waxing poetic about them and we were like “They were nice.” Nice. The first day we were in awe. Second day still impressed. Now we are like “Yeah that’s nice.” Such is the case when you see nothing but castles.
Today we walked around our town, Blois which had a fantastic farmers market. It was a bit odd though as amidst all of the produce there were stands selling bras and mattresses. Bras and mattresses along with your produce? Whoa. We purchased some amazing fruits and vegetables including kale and potatoes for dinner. The doughnut peaches here are to die for as well as the bread. But of course! I can eat a whole loaf in a sitting.
Grammy’s thoughts on the market:
“It’s a good thing we don’t have one close to my house like this. Ralphs, Henry’s, and the Persian Market would be out of business. Except for toilet paper. (Said with a chuckle) it is a wonderful place to people watch, I particularly love the cheese and meat vans because they have all of those wonderful fresh products. I like that they are using wood crates, it is awesome to see them. Back in 1955 I used them as bookcases. Jess ordered me an Americano, and I received booze. Awesome.”
Disclaimer: I thought an Americano was espresso with water. Apparently it is Campari over ice. Grammy received a treat at 12:00! We then ordered a “Café Americano” which is what we originally wanted!
Also when we were ordering produce, I managed to order most of it okay with my rudimentary French, no one speaks English in this town except for the people at the tourist office! Grammy wanted to buy garlic at one of the stands, I had no idea what the French word for it was so I asked “Avez vous garleek?” He had no idea what I was talking about. Then Grammy pipes in with “Garleek … Garleek?” No garlic was to be purchased at that stand. But it was funny. Afterwords.
When I bought a melon the woman asks you when you plan on eating it, then individually tests each one to make sure it is the appropriate amount of ripeness. Tres Fantastique! The goat and sheep cheese choices here are astounding, I had difficulty making a choice. As were the mushrooms, they look delectable, can’t wait to dig into those.
Now Grammy and I are enjoying tea and people watching while this afternoon I will be off to tour some churches.
Grammy’s thoughts on the castles over the past few days:
“It is wondrous to behold that individuals had as much money, sense of history, and ego to build these monuments to themselves. The fact that we can walk in the halls 500 years later and fancy how it must have been at that time is magical. Oh and I looked in the phonebook here for a De Noux; (her maiden name) couldn’t find any.”
Note: My most awesome moment was being in the same chapel that Joan of Arc prayed in prior to going to battle. Talk about walking in the footsteps of history!
Looking forward to traveling to the South of France on Tuesday, then meeting up with 19 friends and family members next weekend!
Today we walked around our town, Blois which had a fantastic farmers market. It was a bit odd though as amidst all of the produce there were stands selling bras and mattresses. Bras and mattresses along with your produce? Whoa. We purchased some amazing fruits and vegetables including kale and potatoes for dinner. The doughnut peaches here are to die for as well as the bread. But of course! I can eat a whole loaf in a sitting.
Grammy’s thoughts on the market:
“It’s a good thing we don’t have one close to my house like this. Ralphs, Henry’s, and the Persian Market would be out of business. Except for toilet paper. (Said with a chuckle) it is a wonderful place to people watch, I particularly love the cheese and meat vans because they have all of those wonderful fresh products. I like that they are using wood crates, it is awesome to see them. Back in 1955 I used them as bookcases. Jess ordered me an Americano, and I received booze. Awesome.”
Disclaimer: I thought an Americano was espresso with water. Apparently it is Campari over ice. Grammy received a treat at 12:00! We then ordered a “Café Americano” which is what we originally wanted!
Also when we were ordering produce, I managed to order most of it okay with my rudimentary French, no one speaks English in this town except for the people at the tourist office! Grammy wanted to buy garlic at one of the stands, I had no idea what the French word for it was so I asked “Avez vous garleek?” He had no idea what I was talking about. Then Grammy pipes in with “Garleek … Garleek?” No garlic was to be purchased at that stand. But it was funny. Afterwords.
When I bought a melon the woman asks you when you plan on eating it, then individually tests each one to make sure it is the appropriate amount of ripeness. Tres Fantastique! The goat and sheep cheese choices here are astounding, I had difficulty making a choice. As were the mushrooms, they look delectable, can’t wait to dig into those.
Now Grammy and I are enjoying tea and people watching while this afternoon I will be off to tour some churches.
Grammy’s thoughts on the castles over the past few days:
“It is wondrous to behold that individuals had as much money, sense of history, and ego to build these monuments to themselves. The fact that we can walk in the halls 500 years later and fancy how it must have been at that time is magical. Oh and I looked in the phonebook here for a De Noux; (her maiden name) couldn’t find any.”
Note: My most awesome moment was being in the same chapel that Joan of Arc prayed in prior to going to battle. Talk about walking in the footsteps of history!
Looking forward to traveling to the South of France on Tuesday, then meeting up with 19 friends and family members next weekend!
It's Not Easy Being Green...
Rather than continue with the “We did this, then we did that….” I have to go on a rant here.
Having just finished the book “Sleeping Naked is Green” this has encouraged my green pondering. Said book is about a woman who is not really green at all who decides to change her life after watching “An Inconvenient Truth.” She decides to make one green change per day for a year from turning off her fridge to selling her car. Obviously those are huge changes but she also makes small ones like using handkerchiefs instead of Kleenex and all natural makeup. This book was great, put a human touch on the challenge one takes on in being “green.” As a somewhat new “greenie” I could totally relate to her book. The challenges one faces when a lifestyle shift is made, and the guilt associated with it. For example in public bathrooms, should I use paper towels or the hand dryer? The woman in the book decided to forgo both, which is what I am trying to do, but darn it all those paper towels feel so good!
Trash. Many of you that know me know that I pick up trash on a regular basis when walking around my neighborhood. But on this trip I have seen such inordinate amounts of trash like in Cork, I didn’t even start picking it up as I knew I wouldn’t be able to carry it all. Every time I pass by a piece of trash on the street I question “Should I pick that up? How dirty do you think it is? Is it recyclable? Will a fish be eating it soon? When will I be able to wash my hands again?” All this over a piece of trash. Sometimes I just walk on by because it is so exhausting and I know once I start, I can’t stop. When I was hiking with my Swiss friend Rachel we started picking up trash, before you knew it we had three bags worth. Then once the bags are full we encounter, do we keep picking it up? What about cigarette boxes that have been rained on? I know the plastic won’t biodegrade but the paper will.
Also what about all of these people in France and Ireland that blatantly toss their cigarette butts in front of me? I have only picked up one, but the ferry driver on Rathlin Island that tossed his butt into the water still haunts me. Obviously I am not going to say anything to people in both countries as it is not my country but it drives me crazy! Maybe I should start an ad campaign with a fish eating a cigarette butt? Think that would stop people? Side note: As I am uploading this at the one internet cafe the cafe owner just tossed his butt on the sidewalk. Ahhhhhh!
Traveling and maintaining ones “green” habits is tough. I still have not figured out how to say “no bag” en francais but I manage a “no sac pas” and they seem to get it. Although yesterday Grammy and I went to a shop advertised as “The Fruitstand” where you are not allowed to touch any of the fruit, you tell the woman what you want and she gets it. She put everything in individual bags! I was going crazy! Obviously I had my cloth sacks but this is the way they do it here.
Today we went to the farmers market and it was plastic bags abound. This happens as well in the farmers markets back at home, and it may be my personal mission to stop it. I know some of you out there are saying “We use them as poop bags.” But poop bags do not biodegrade, thus the greener option is to carry cloth produce sacks and buy cornstarch biodegradable poop bags.
Also the availability of recycling here and in Ireland is pretty disappointing. When we asked the gentleman who we are renting the apartment from where to take the recycling he basically instructed us to wander around town until we find a recycling receptacle which are few and far between. Thus as is the case in many cities one really has to be proactive in their recycling. I thought Europeans were so progressive, looks like my stereotype is just that. A stereotype.
Grammy’s thoughts on being green:
“A lot of work. Causing one to be on the alert and rethink purchases, attitudes, and actions. Being green when traveling requires a great deal of planning before leaving, i.e. reusable plastic containers rather than plastic bags, cloth handkerchiefs instead of paper napkins, and repackaging all of your green products at home to bring with you. I am tired just thinking about this. I have to redo my whole travel checklist, eliminating a lot of things and substituting it with green products. Learn to say ‘No sac, no bags’ in whatever language. Add it to the list of things to learn with ‘Where’s the toilet.’ ”
This experience has really helped me to appreciate my co-op back home. There I have the luxury of not thinking about what I am buying as all of it is organic. Here in the grocery stores I have yet to see any organics. Also once you get used to eating organic boy can you tell a difference. The farm in Northern Ireland had the most amazing delicious produce, and I miss it! People talk about smug environmentalists pushing their ideals on everyone, but it is hard when you read information like how root vegetables carry a higher amount of pesticides like DDT, and then you see your friends and family buying them because the price is right. Where is the balance? Why isn’t our government watching over our health like it should instead of people with the most money like Monsanto?
Irregular rant is over, just know it is not easy being green.
Having just finished the book “Sleeping Naked is Green” this has encouraged my green pondering. Said book is about a woman who is not really green at all who decides to change her life after watching “An Inconvenient Truth.” She decides to make one green change per day for a year from turning off her fridge to selling her car. Obviously those are huge changes but she also makes small ones like using handkerchiefs instead of Kleenex and all natural makeup. This book was great, put a human touch on the challenge one takes on in being “green.” As a somewhat new “greenie” I could totally relate to her book. The challenges one faces when a lifestyle shift is made, and the guilt associated with it. For example in public bathrooms, should I use paper towels or the hand dryer? The woman in the book decided to forgo both, which is what I am trying to do, but darn it all those paper towels feel so good!
Trash. Many of you that know me know that I pick up trash on a regular basis when walking around my neighborhood. But on this trip I have seen such inordinate amounts of trash like in Cork, I didn’t even start picking it up as I knew I wouldn’t be able to carry it all. Every time I pass by a piece of trash on the street I question “Should I pick that up? How dirty do you think it is? Is it recyclable? Will a fish be eating it soon? When will I be able to wash my hands again?” All this over a piece of trash. Sometimes I just walk on by because it is so exhausting and I know once I start, I can’t stop. When I was hiking with my Swiss friend Rachel we started picking up trash, before you knew it we had three bags worth. Then once the bags are full we encounter, do we keep picking it up? What about cigarette boxes that have been rained on? I know the plastic won’t biodegrade but the paper will.
Also what about all of these people in France and Ireland that blatantly toss their cigarette butts in front of me? I have only picked up one, but the ferry driver on Rathlin Island that tossed his butt into the water still haunts me. Obviously I am not going to say anything to people in both countries as it is not my country but it drives me crazy! Maybe I should start an ad campaign with a fish eating a cigarette butt? Think that would stop people? Side note: As I am uploading this at the one internet cafe the cafe owner just tossed his butt on the sidewalk. Ahhhhhh!
Traveling and maintaining ones “green” habits is tough. I still have not figured out how to say “no bag” en francais but I manage a “no sac pas” and they seem to get it. Although yesterday Grammy and I went to a shop advertised as “The Fruitstand” where you are not allowed to touch any of the fruit, you tell the woman what you want and she gets it. She put everything in individual bags! I was going crazy! Obviously I had my cloth sacks but this is the way they do it here.
Today we went to the farmers market and it was plastic bags abound. This happens as well in the farmers markets back at home, and it may be my personal mission to stop it. I know some of you out there are saying “We use them as poop bags.” But poop bags do not biodegrade, thus the greener option is to carry cloth produce sacks and buy cornstarch biodegradable poop bags.
Also the availability of recycling here and in Ireland is pretty disappointing. When we asked the gentleman who we are renting the apartment from where to take the recycling he basically instructed us to wander around town until we find a recycling receptacle which are few and far between. Thus as is the case in many cities one really has to be proactive in their recycling. I thought Europeans were so progressive, looks like my stereotype is just that. A stereotype.
Grammy’s thoughts on being green:
“A lot of work. Causing one to be on the alert and rethink purchases, attitudes, and actions. Being green when traveling requires a great deal of planning before leaving, i.e. reusable plastic containers rather than plastic bags, cloth handkerchiefs instead of paper napkins, and repackaging all of your green products at home to bring with you. I am tired just thinking about this. I have to redo my whole travel checklist, eliminating a lot of things and substituting it with green products. Learn to say ‘No sac, no bags’ in whatever language. Add it to the list of things to learn with ‘Where’s the toilet.’ ”
This experience has really helped me to appreciate my co-op back home. There I have the luxury of not thinking about what I am buying as all of it is organic. Here in the grocery stores I have yet to see any organics. Also once you get used to eating organic boy can you tell a difference. The farm in Northern Ireland had the most amazing delicious produce, and I miss it! People talk about smug environmentalists pushing their ideals on everyone, but it is hard when you read information like how root vegetables carry a higher amount of pesticides like DDT, and then you see your friends and family buying them because the price is right. Where is the balance? Why isn’t our government watching over our health like it should instead of people with the most money like Monsanto?
Irregular rant is over, just know it is not easy being green.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
First three days en France
Sunday morning after 3.5 hours of sleep I was up and off to France. As previously mentioned the reason I booked my specific hostel was to have the free airport bus. On the information the hostel gave out it said that it left at 5 am and took 30 minutes. Ah hindsight how you truly are 20/20! For some really inane reason I did not look at my flight information until I was on said bus. All along I had been thinking that my flight left at 7:25. Well actually Grammy’s flight arrived in Paris at 7:25. So there I am on the bus and it is running quite late as it stopped at like 5 hotels to pick up passengers. The girl in front of me was flying to Copenhagen and was supposed to leave at 6:40, at this point it was 5:40 and she was freaking out. I then started to have a wee bit of a panic as I had not checked in online and I started to wonder if they would give my seat away. I looked at my reservation via my email and lo and behold I was leaving at 7! Okay now I started to freak out wondering what kind of immigration lines I would have to be standing in and how long that would take. We arrived at the airport at 5:55, a dash to the terminal then ensued. Aer lingus is a massive airline; you had to look at a huge departures board to find out what line to stand in. Granted I attempted to check in via the computer self serve terminals but it directed me to the really looong line. Once I was in the correct line I was really panicking as it was 6:00 by this point and the security line was ever growing in front of my eyes. At 6:10 I heard an announcement overhead that it was last call for check in for my flight to Paris and to come to desk 501. I jumped out of line and ran to the desk. Now this is what I love about the Irish. Yes, I had been up at 3:30 weighing my bag to keep it under 20 kilos, but I had also heard how relaxed they are about the weight so I knew it was a bit over. When I put it on the scale it was 22 kilos. In America they would have instructed me to take out the 2 kilos… Irish style? No comment, just a sticker stating “Heavy” on it. She gave me my boarding pass and I asked her “Am I going to make it? She informed me I was and I made a mad dash to the security line.
Now this security line was the length of a good ride in Disneyland. Not like the Dumbo ride, more like Magic Mountain. I was really panicking now as it was 6:15; the boarding pass stated that the gate closed at 6:35! I circled around, panicking and panicking, imaging how I was going to have to text Grammy that I missed my flight, would I send her on to Blois alone? 6:32 came along and I made it to the woman who looks at your ID, once again time to compare to America. In America they scan it with a blue light look at you, look back, it is a process. This woman took a cursory glance and sent me on my way. Also no shoes were to be taken off, but umbrellas had to be removed from our bags and one woman had the job of opening them and looking inside. Talk about a job that incurs back luck!
Once I made it through security I RAN to my gate through all of the duty free shopping. Not a glance for tax free Chanel or scotch, I had a plane to catch! Upon arrival at my gate they were still boarding and there was quite a line. Whew!
On the plane I sat next to a lovely woman from Dublin who said she had never seen the lines so long at the airport. She and I got to chatting (big surprise) and I regaled her with stories of my adventures in Ireland. She particularly enjoyed the stories of Sonny the farmer. It was so nice to be sitting next to a friendly Irish woman who was enjoying my stories, made me wistful for the country I was leaving behind.
Alas, France was calling! After I arrived at the airport, jumped through immigration, (all I was asked was if I just arrived… ummm wasn’t I at the airport?) it was off to locate Grammy. Wouldn’t it be nice if we could just put a microchip on our relatives, dial up the app on my blackberry, and bam there she is? Needed that yesterday at the castle, but I digress.
After taking the shuttle to her terminal I found her, standing facing the arrivals, even though I arrived at another terminal. (: She was very excited to see me and took a picture of me within 2 minutes. We then set off to purchase our train tickets. After attempting to do it via the machine (darn Europe and their laser credit cards!) we stood in the queue for 20 minutes to speak with a representative. He offered us many options, and we changed our plans on the spot in order to get to the town earlier. We are staying in the Loire Valley in a small town called Blois that is just lovely. Our train ride was about 2 hours and the gentleman who I had rented the apartment from was kind enough to pick us up at the train station.
Prior to the trip Grammy began to have some knee pain, which is not helped by the fact that our apartment is on the third floor. It is a lovely apartment, and the bedrooms are on the fourth floor! We have wonderful windows that open up to let the breeze in and sweeping views of the Loire river on one side and the magnificent castle on the other. Very romantic!
After getting settled in we decided to ramble about town to get some dinner and see if the grocery store was open. Turns out the grocery store is not open on Sundays, so we set that on the agenda for the first thing to do on Monday. We had drinks in the beautiful open square where they were doing public swing dancing lessons. There was a stage set up and people of all ages were partaking! Grammy said if her knee wasn’t bothering her she would for sure be out there, so we appreciated from a distance while enjoying kir petillants.
For dinner we walked to a restaurant that was right on the river and while completely murdering French I managed to order for us. I had a salad with goats cheese and French fries, while Grammy had a salad with meat of some sort on it. It was perfect as we were both so tired.
The next day began with a trip to the grocery store where quell surprise they had soy milk! Hooray! Next to the grocery store is a boulangerie that might just make the world’s most amazing almond croissant. Post grocery store trip I dropped the groceries off and it was off to the Blois Chateau. Otherwise known as the Blois Castle. This is a serious castle! We were provided with a self guided tour pamphlet and it was off to explore. The castle is huge, 3 floors built around a square design with the wings being built between the 13th and 17th centuries.
Francois I lived here as well as Catherine De Medici and Henry III. It is famously known for the assignation of the Duc de Guise in 1588 as he was trying to usurp the throne. Turns out William the III wasn’t loved by his people too much and was assignated soon after. The castle had magnificent rooms, including Catherine De Medici’s bedchamber which she passed away in on 5 January 1589. There was also a fine arts museum which housed paintings and sculptures from the 16th to 19th century. Okay tourist information part is over.
Grammy’s impressions of the Blois castle:
“I think it was a good introduction to the splendiferous opalescence to come. I particularly liked the entrance with the statue of whoever that was. I was sad to see that the gardens were no longer, And I don’t remember the first day now.” (Note I asked her this on the third day, note to self ask the evening of as all the castles start to look alike!)
What I really kept thinking as I was walking throughout these opulent rooms is what a stark contrast to Ireland. In Ireland nothing that I saw was opulent and it just seemed more real. Here there are these fantastical castles, but who really lived in them? A select group of people while the majority of the population was hungry. (Not the case now of course) Ah well I know I should not compare, but traveling in Ireland just seemed so much easier, maybe it was because the people are so friendly and I spoke the language. Grammy says that I should go to Italy next as she feels like the people there are quite welcoming, add it to the list!
That evening we had dinner at the apartment, made pasta with zucchini, tomatoes, and mushrooms, it was yummy. Then it was off to bed for a full day on Tuesday of castles.
Tuesday we took a bus which left from our town and went to two castles, Chambord and Cheverny. Now I know that they are selling Chambord everywhere, but nowhere at that castle was there evidence of the drink and the castle being related. Something to Wikipedia when I have the internet! (I am typing these at the apartment as there is only one place in town with wifi!)
Chambord is a humongous castle that is 156 metres long, 56 metres tall, with 77 staircases, 282 fireplaces, and 426 rooms. Basically humongous. It was built for Francis I as a hunting lodge, but he only spent 72 days here. It was his son Henry II and Louis XIV both likewise very fond of hunting who are responsible for making it is what it is today. The French government bought it in 1931 and they have no idea who was the original architect. There are rumors that the original plan was by Leonardo Da Vinci but there is no evidence of this.
Grammy and I took the audio tour of the chateau which was chock full of information. The center staircase was a double helix, thus two staircases that intertwined. The purpose behind this was that two people could ascend or descend the staircases simultaneously and see each other through the windows yet never be on the same staircase at the same time. Apparently to admire from afar?
We ate lunch outside with beautiful views of the chateau and the gardens.
Grammy’s impressions of Chambord:
“Jaw dropping. I got off the bus and went Oh my God. The stone and the cleanliness of the stone reminded me of the Getty Museum in Los Angeles due to the beautiful white limestone that was used. The majesty of the double helix stairway; I could envision people passing each other going up and down that stairway in those 13th, 14th, and 15th century dress. After much searching I was able to locate a picture of Francois I and I love it. He has a Basil Rathbone type of quality to his face. I loved the history behind it, and so admire the fact that most of the visitors were French.” PS “My tootsies hurt.”
Post lunch it was off to our second chateau of the day, Cheverny. This chateau is still in private use and has been in the Hurault family for over 6 centuries. They have over a hundred French hounds on the grounds and we saw 50 of them within an outside kennel.
Cheverny was crowded, we arrived at about 3:00 pm and it was packed. You can only tour around 15 rooms and it is all via a path divided by ropes so it is almost like you are cattle being herded through. We had a couple in front of us that were videotaping each room, much to Grammy’s chagrin. (:
Interesting facts learned via the handout given at this chateau:
It was Louis XV who decided to place table forks with their prongs facing downwards as he was tired of snagging lace on his sleeves. It was the unconventional Charles X who decided to put glasses on the table as he could no longer tolerate having servants standing behind each guest eavesdropping on conversations.
There were beautiful gardens, including a kitchen garden, which I enjoyed identifying all of the plants and vegetables that I had been so one on one with on my farms. Grammy got some good ideas for her garden at home! Also there was a fantastic gift shop. Christmas gifts were purchased!
Grammy’s impressions of Cheverny:
“Of the three chateaus that we have seen so far, I could totally pack my bag and move in there. There are several pieces of small furniture that I could take out of there and bring home with me. A comfortable gracious home with lovely gardens and the kitchen garden was to die for. But I want the gardener to go with the kitchen garden. I again enjoyed the history of its construction and continued use over the years. The only negative I would say is that it was late afternoon and there were too many people."
That evening we went out to a restaurant near our apartment that was listed as Japanese and Vietnamese food. I ordered the three vegetarian items on the menu. That is correct three vegetarian items. Wow. Life was so much easier when I ate fish!
As we were finishing our meal Grammy was putting forth a good effort into finishing her pork egg rolls with not much success.
Me: Uh Gram you could get a box for those and take those back to the apartment.
Gram: No, they don’t do take out here.
Me: Says who?
Gram: Says all of my guide books!
Thus I asked the server if we could have a container and lo and behold they do let you do take out in France! Hah! (:
Today, Wednesday began with me taking laundry to the laundrymat. WOW Tros cher! 5 euros per wash! Of course I had two loads (light and darks) most expensive laundry ever!
Post laundry it was time to go in search of the farmers market. We never found it, but did find some amazing shopping! Trouble I tell you! Grammy found some good finds as well and some great gifts. We shopped for a few hours and had lunch a cute little café. I had a salad with goats cheese (are you noticing a trend?) and Grammy had a salad with a turkey leg. Literally a turkey leg. I have nothing more to say on that.
Post shopping we retired to the apartment for a nap and an early dinner. Now we are sitting in the central square enjoying drinks watching a band play. It is lovely.
Grammy’s thoughts from day 3:
“I am doing so much walking and climbing; between stairs and cobblestones I am going to lose 10 pounds. Today was a good, relaxing, non stressful frenchie day. But I am not ready to put on a tunic and tights and ballet slippers and go tripping around.”
Now this security line was the length of a good ride in Disneyland. Not like the Dumbo ride, more like Magic Mountain. I was really panicking now as it was 6:15; the boarding pass stated that the gate closed at 6:35! I circled around, panicking and panicking, imaging how I was going to have to text Grammy that I missed my flight, would I send her on to Blois alone? 6:32 came along and I made it to the woman who looks at your ID, once again time to compare to America. In America they scan it with a blue light look at you, look back, it is a process. This woman took a cursory glance and sent me on my way. Also no shoes were to be taken off, but umbrellas had to be removed from our bags and one woman had the job of opening them and looking inside. Talk about a job that incurs back luck!
Once I made it through security I RAN to my gate through all of the duty free shopping. Not a glance for tax free Chanel or scotch, I had a plane to catch! Upon arrival at my gate they were still boarding and there was quite a line. Whew!
On the plane I sat next to a lovely woman from Dublin who said she had never seen the lines so long at the airport. She and I got to chatting (big surprise) and I regaled her with stories of my adventures in Ireland. She particularly enjoyed the stories of Sonny the farmer. It was so nice to be sitting next to a friendly Irish woman who was enjoying my stories, made me wistful for the country I was leaving behind.
Alas, France was calling! After I arrived at the airport, jumped through immigration, (all I was asked was if I just arrived… ummm wasn’t I at the airport?) it was off to locate Grammy. Wouldn’t it be nice if we could just put a microchip on our relatives, dial up the app on my blackberry, and bam there she is? Needed that yesterday at the castle, but I digress.
After taking the shuttle to her terminal I found her, standing facing the arrivals, even though I arrived at another terminal. (: She was very excited to see me and took a picture of me within 2 minutes. We then set off to purchase our train tickets. After attempting to do it via the machine (darn Europe and their laser credit cards!) we stood in the queue for 20 minutes to speak with a representative. He offered us many options, and we changed our plans on the spot in order to get to the town earlier. We are staying in the Loire Valley in a small town called Blois that is just lovely. Our train ride was about 2 hours and the gentleman who I had rented the apartment from was kind enough to pick us up at the train station.
Prior to the trip Grammy began to have some knee pain, which is not helped by the fact that our apartment is on the third floor. It is a lovely apartment, and the bedrooms are on the fourth floor! We have wonderful windows that open up to let the breeze in and sweeping views of the Loire river on one side and the magnificent castle on the other. Very romantic!
After getting settled in we decided to ramble about town to get some dinner and see if the grocery store was open. Turns out the grocery store is not open on Sundays, so we set that on the agenda for the first thing to do on Monday. We had drinks in the beautiful open square where they were doing public swing dancing lessons. There was a stage set up and people of all ages were partaking! Grammy said if her knee wasn’t bothering her she would for sure be out there, so we appreciated from a distance while enjoying kir petillants.
For dinner we walked to a restaurant that was right on the river and while completely murdering French I managed to order for us. I had a salad with goats cheese and French fries, while Grammy had a salad with meat of some sort on it. It was perfect as we were both so tired.
The next day began with a trip to the grocery store where quell surprise they had soy milk! Hooray! Next to the grocery store is a boulangerie that might just make the world’s most amazing almond croissant. Post grocery store trip I dropped the groceries off and it was off to the Blois Chateau. Otherwise known as the Blois Castle. This is a serious castle! We were provided with a self guided tour pamphlet and it was off to explore. The castle is huge, 3 floors built around a square design with the wings being built between the 13th and 17th centuries.
Francois I lived here as well as Catherine De Medici and Henry III. It is famously known for the assignation of the Duc de Guise in 1588 as he was trying to usurp the throne. Turns out William the III wasn’t loved by his people too much and was assignated soon after. The castle had magnificent rooms, including Catherine De Medici’s bedchamber which she passed away in on 5 January 1589. There was also a fine arts museum which housed paintings and sculptures from the 16th to 19th century. Okay tourist information part is over.
Grammy’s impressions of the Blois castle:
“I think it was a good introduction to the splendiferous opalescence to come. I particularly liked the entrance with the statue of whoever that was. I was sad to see that the gardens were no longer, And I don’t remember the first day now.” (Note I asked her this on the third day, note to self ask the evening of as all the castles start to look alike!)
What I really kept thinking as I was walking throughout these opulent rooms is what a stark contrast to Ireland. In Ireland nothing that I saw was opulent and it just seemed more real. Here there are these fantastical castles, but who really lived in them? A select group of people while the majority of the population was hungry. (Not the case now of course) Ah well I know I should not compare, but traveling in Ireland just seemed so much easier, maybe it was because the people are so friendly and I spoke the language. Grammy says that I should go to Italy next as she feels like the people there are quite welcoming, add it to the list!
That evening we had dinner at the apartment, made pasta with zucchini, tomatoes, and mushrooms, it was yummy. Then it was off to bed for a full day on Tuesday of castles.
Tuesday we took a bus which left from our town and went to two castles, Chambord and Cheverny. Now I know that they are selling Chambord everywhere, but nowhere at that castle was there evidence of the drink and the castle being related. Something to Wikipedia when I have the internet! (I am typing these at the apartment as there is only one place in town with wifi!)
Chambord is a humongous castle that is 156 metres long, 56 metres tall, with 77 staircases, 282 fireplaces, and 426 rooms. Basically humongous. It was built for Francis I as a hunting lodge, but he only spent 72 days here. It was his son Henry II and Louis XIV both likewise very fond of hunting who are responsible for making it is what it is today. The French government bought it in 1931 and they have no idea who was the original architect. There are rumors that the original plan was by Leonardo Da Vinci but there is no evidence of this.
Grammy and I took the audio tour of the chateau which was chock full of information. The center staircase was a double helix, thus two staircases that intertwined. The purpose behind this was that two people could ascend or descend the staircases simultaneously and see each other through the windows yet never be on the same staircase at the same time. Apparently to admire from afar?
We ate lunch outside with beautiful views of the chateau and the gardens.
Grammy’s impressions of Chambord:
“Jaw dropping. I got off the bus and went Oh my God. The stone and the cleanliness of the stone reminded me of the Getty Museum in Los Angeles due to the beautiful white limestone that was used. The majesty of the double helix stairway; I could envision people passing each other going up and down that stairway in those 13th, 14th, and 15th century dress. After much searching I was able to locate a picture of Francois I and I love it. He has a Basil Rathbone type of quality to his face. I loved the history behind it, and so admire the fact that most of the visitors were French.” PS “My tootsies hurt.”
Post lunch it was off to our second chateau of the day, Cheverny. This chateau is still in private use and has been in the Hurault family for over 6 centuries. They have over a hundred French hounds on the grounds and we saw 50 of them within an outside kennel.
Cheverny was crowded, we arrived at about 3:00 pm and it was packed. You can only tour around 15 rooms and it is all via a path divided by ropes so it is almost like you are cattle being herded through. We had a couple in front of us that were videotaping each room, much to Grammy’s chagrin. (:
Interesting facts learned via the handout given at this chateau:
It was Louis XV who decided to place table forks with their prongs facing downwards as he was tired of snagging lace on his sleeves. It was the unconventional Charles X who decided to put glasses on the table as he could no longer tolerate having servants standing behind each guest eavesdropping on conversations.
There were beautiful gardens, including a kitchen garden, which I enjoyed identifying all of the plants and vegetables that I had been so one on one with on my farms. Grammy got some good ideas for her garden at home! Also there was a fantastic gift shop. Christmas gifts were purchased!
Grammy’s impressions of Cheverny:
“Of the three chateaus that we have seen so far, I could totally pack my bag and move in there. There are several pieces of small furniture that I could take out of there and bring home with me. A comfortable gracious home with lovely gardens and the kitchen garden was to die for. But I want the gardener to go with the kitchen garden. I again enjoyed the history of its construction and continued use over the years. The only negative I would say is that it was late afternoon and there were too many people."
That evening we went out to a restaurant near our apartment that was listed as Japanese and Vietnamese food. I ordered the three vegetarian items on the menu. That is correct three vegetarian items. Wow. Life was so much easier when I ate fish!
As we were finishing our meal Grammy was putting forth a good effort into finishing her pork egg rolls with not much success.
Me: Uh Gram you could get a box for those and take those back to the apartment.
Gram: No, they don’t do take out here.
Me: Says who?
Gram: Says all of my guide books!
Thus I asked the server if we could have a container and lo and behold they do let you do take out in France! Hah! (:
Today, Wednesday began with me taking laundry to the laundrymat. WOW Tros cher! 5 euros per wash! Of course I had two loads (light and darks) most expensive laundry ever!
Post laundry it was time to go in search of the farmers market. We never found it, but did find some amazing shopping! Trouble I tell you! Grammy found some good finds as well and some great gifts. We shopped for a few hours and had lunch a cute little café. I had a salad with goats cheese (are you noticing a trend?) and Grammy had a salad with a turkey leg. Literally a turkey leg. I have nothing more to say on that.
Post shopping we retired to the apartment for a nap and an early dinner. Now we are sitting in the central square enjoying drinks watching a band play. It is lovely.
Grammy’s thoughts from day 3:
“I am doing so much walking and climbing; between stairs and cobblestones I am going to lose 10 pounds. Today was a good, relaxing, non stressful frenchie day. But I am not ready to put on a tunic and tights and ballet slippers and go tripping around.”
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